SKU: 71656328104
5 gallon aloe vera plant

5 gallon aloe vera plant Aloe Vera – Texas Tree Farms

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Description

5 gallon aloe vera plant Aloe Vera – Texas Tree FarmsAloe vera, also known as Aloe barbadensis, is a perennial succulent plant belonging to the Asphodelaceae family and native to the Arabian Peninsula. It has thick, fleshy, lance shaped leaves that grow in a rosette pattern from a central stem. The leaves are typically green to gray green in color and have serrated edges with small white teeth. Mature plants may produce tall flower spikes adorned with tubular yellow or orange flowers. Aloe vera is

Aloe vera, also known as Aloe barbadensis, is a perennial succulent plant belonging to the Asphodelaceae family and native to the Arabian Peninsula. It has thick, fleshy, lance-shaped leaves that grow in a rosette pattern from a central stem. The leaves are typically green to gray-green in color and have serrated edges with small white teeth. Mature plants may produce tall flower spikes adorned with tubular yellow or orange flowers. Aloe vera is primarily grown for its foliage and gel-filled leaves which are famous for their cooling effect on burns and skin irritations.

Scientific Name

Aloe vera (syn. Aloe barbadensis

Foliage: Evergreen

Leaves: The thick, lance-shaped leaves are gray-green (sometimes spotted with white when young). The edges are lined with small, soft white teeth.

Flowers: Mature plants (usually 4+ years old) produce a tall spike in summer topped with tubular yellow flowers. Aloe vera typically blooms in the late winter to early summer, with the peak flowering period usually occurring in spring (March through May).

Lifespan: Polycarpic Perennial  Unlike the 'Agave Whale's Tongue', which bloom once and die, a mature Aloe vera can bloom every year once it reaches reproductive maturity. The average lifespan for an indoor potted Aloe vera is 10 to 20 years and the average lifespan for an outdoor lifespan is 20 to 100 years. Even if the original "mother" plant eventually dies after 15 or 20 years, she will have produced dozens of genetically identical clones around her base. This allows the cluster to survive almost indefinitely if left undisturbed.

Mature Height

1-2 feet (flower stalks can reach 3 feet)

Mature Width (Spread)

1-2 feet (clumps can spread wider via "pups")

Growth Rate

Slow to Moderate

USDA Zone

Zone 8-11 (Best outdoors in 9-11; needs protection below 25 degrees F)


PLANT CARE & CHARACTERISTICS

Light Requirements: Bright Indirect Light to Full Sun. Indoors, it needs a very sunny window. Outdoors, it prefers full sun but appreciates some light afternoon shade in blistering desert climates to prevent the leaves from turning orange or "sunburnt." When grown indoors, place Aloe vera near a south- or west-facing window where it can receive plenty of sunlight throughout the day.

Water Requirements: Low. Aloe stores water in its fleshy leaves. The "soak and dry" method is best: water deeply, then allow the soil to dry out completely (at least the top 2 inches) before watering again. Over-watering is the most common cause of death, root rot. 

Drought Resistance: Exceptional. It is highly adapted to arid conditions and can survive long periods without supplemental water, though it looks "plumper" and healthier with occasional deep watering.

Soil Type: Gritty and Well-Drained. It requires a sandy or rocky soil mix. It will not tolerate "wet feet." In pots, a cactus or succulent potting mix is essential. A well-draining pot is important to prevent water-logging and root rot.

Deer Resistance: High. Deer generally find the thick, bitter sap and the prickly margins of the leaves unpalatable.

Pest/Disease Resistance: Moderate to High. If kept in the correct environment (low humidity, well-draining soil, and high light), Aloe vera rarely suffers from disease. For common pests like mealybugs, a cotton swab dipped in 70% isopropyl alcohol can be used to dab them away. For fungal spots, improving air circulation and keeping the leaves dry is usually enough to stop the spread.

Issue Description & Symptoms
Aphids / Mealybugs Small, sap-sucking insects that hide in the crevices of the leaves. You may see "honeydew" (sticky residue) or white, cottony clusters.
Aloe Mite Microscopic mites that cause "Aloe Gall"—an ugly, cancerous-looking growth or "wart" on the leaves or flower stalks.
Snout Beetle A more serious pest that bores into the center of the plant to lay eggs; the larvae then eat the plant from the inside out.
Root Rot The most common killer of Aloe. Caused by overwatering or poor drainage. Leaves will turn mushy, brown, or translucent at the base.
Fungal Leaf Spot Appears as small, dark brown or black spots on the leaves, often triggered by water sitting on the foliage in cool temperatures.
Aloe Rust A fungal infection that creates permanent black spots. It isn’t usually fatal but can ruin the plant's aesthetic.


Pollination: Aloe vera is generally self-incompatible, meaning a single plant cannot pollinate itself. To produce viable seeds, you typically need two different clones blooming at the same time.

HARVEST

Feature Guideline
Maturity Only harvest from plants that are at least 3 years old. Younger plants do not have the same concentration of active medicinal compounds.
Which Leaves? Always harvest the outermost, bottom leaves. These are the oldest and largest. Never harvest from the center "crown," as this is where the new growth happens.
Technique Use a sharp, clean knife. Cut the leaf as close to the main trunk as possible at a slight downward angle. Avoid "snapping" the leaf by hand, which can tear the plant's tissue.
The "Bleed" After cutting, stand the leaf upright in a container for 10–15 minutes. A yellow sap called aloin (latex) will drip out. This substance is a strong laxative and skin irritant; most people prefer to drain it before using the clear inner gel.
Frequency Do not remove more than 20–30% of the plant's total leaves at one time. If you over-harvest, the plant will become stunted.


STORAGE/SHELF LIFE

Form Storage Method Shelf Life
Whole Leaf (Fresh) Room Temperature (Cool/Dark) 1 to 2 days
Whole Leaf (Fresh) Refrigerated (Wrapped in plastic) 1 to 2 weeks
Extracted Gel (Pure) Refrigerated (Airtight container) 5 to 7 days
Extracted Gel (Pure) Frozen (Ice cube trays) 6 to 8 months
Extracted Gel (Preserved) Refrigerated (With Vitamin C/E) 1 to 2 months


Best Practices for Maximizing Shelf Life

1. The "Yellow Sap" Drain: As mentioned during harvesting, always allow the yellow liquid (aloin) to drain out for 10–15 minutes before storing or processing the gel. This liquid oxidizes quickly and can spoil the clear gel if left inside.

2. Preventing Oxidation: Once the clear gel is exposed to air, it begins to lose its potency. If you are storing extracted gel in the fridge, fill the container to the top to minimize the amount of oxygen inside.

3. Natural Preservatives: If you need the gel to last longer than a week without freezing, you can blend in Vitamin C powder (ascorbic acid) or Vitamin E oil. This helps stabilize the gel and acts as an antioxidant.

4. Signs of Spoilage: You should discard Aloe vera if you notice any of the following:

  • Smell: A strong, sour, or "pungent" odor (fresh aloe should have a very mild, grassy scent).
  • Color: The clear gel turns deep pink, brown, or dark gray.
  • Texture: The gel becomes excessively watery or develops mold on the surface.

PRUNING

Aspect Recommendation
Primary Goal To remove dead, damaged, or diseased leaves and to harvest healthy leaves for use.
Target Leaves Focus on the outermost leaves at the base of the plant. These are the oldest and most likely to show wear or be ready for harvest.
When to Prune Any time of year, though spring or summer is ideal as the plant is in its active growth phase and will heal faster.
The "Crown" Rule Never prune the center of the plant (the "crown"). This is the growth point; if damaged, the plant may stop growing or die.
Managing "Pups" If the pot is getting crowded, pruning includes removing the small "pups" (offsets) at the base to redirect energy to the mother plant.


Step-by-Step Pruning Process

1. Sanitize Your Tools: Use a sharp knife or garden shears cleaned with rubbing alcohol. This prevents the spread of fungal diseases like Aloe Rust.

2. Assess the Plant: Look for leaves that are turning brown, shriveled, or have dark spots. These should be your first priority for removal.

3. The Cut: Place your blade as close to the main stem as possible. Cut at a slight downward angle. Avoid leaving "stubs" of leaves, as these can rot.

4. Harvesting vs. Maintenance: If the leaves are healthy but the plant is simply too large, you can harvest these healthy outer leaves for their gel (see storage info above).

5. Remove Pups: If you want a single, large specimen, use a trowel to gently separate the babies (pups) from the mother plant's roots. These can be repotted into new containers.

6. Aftercare: After a heavy pruning session, avoid watering the plant for 2–3 days. This allows the "wounds" on the stem to callus over, which acts as a natural seal against bacteria and rot.

Essential Safety Note

Aloin Awareness: When you prune, the plant will "bleed" a yellow, latex-like sap called aloin. This can be a skin irritant for some people. If you have sensitive skin, it is a good idea to wear gloves.

Spines: While Aloe vera spines are softer than those on an Agave, they can still be prickly. Handle with care to avoid small scratches.

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SKU: 71656328104

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Product Reviews
J
Verified Purchase
James Collier
Belleville, US
★★★★★ 3
Good but misleading size
Size: 3Pack of 5 Tier (Not included planks)
Sturdy set for shelving. However dimensions are misleading. Not sure if they sent the incorrect size but the vertical distance between shelves was 11” and that’s without the shelving installed
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Reviewed in the United States on February 17, 2026
S
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Sara
Waukegan, US
★★★★★ 5
Worked for pantry
Size: 3Pack of 5 Tier (Not included planks), Size: 3Pack of 5 Tier (Not included planks)
These turned out perfect t for a pantry. Just fyi get better dry wall anchors and you’re golden! Definitely takes two people to put up tho!
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Reviewed in the United States on February 14, 2026
R
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Rich
Houston, US
★★★★★ 5
Buy it.
This is not merely another guide to intensive care. Well-organized and detailed, it hits the right note between the things a beginner has to know (and probably has some idea about) and the things a beginner needs to know (but is clueless). It even includes a chapter on burnout. Recommended for everyone new to the ICU, and also everyone who has been around awhile. I’m going to get a lot of use from this text, I can already tell.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 19, 2018
W
Verified Purchase
W. Lonfrost
Battle Creek, US
★★★★★ 3
A little too beginner; doesn't translate well to USA patterns of practice
Format: Paperback
The book title really says it all, it really is the BEGINNER'S guide to the ICU for junior doctors and allied health professionals - more like an introduction to important concepts rather than a guide really. The strengths of the text come from its stated purpose of being a absolute, beginner's guide to critical care. The book would be appropriate for perhaps a 4th year med student or a intern who is very early in residency w/ little ICU experience or a newly minted APP; there's little to be gained by a advanced resident, fellow or practicing physician. The chapters are very short which provide a mere grazing-the-surface of important critical care concepts - some chapters are too short to really be useful (e.g. the paltry coverage of ultrasound in crit care (p. 159) is only 10 pages including pictures). The book, editors and authors are UK-based which makes the units of measurement, choice of drugs and some practice patterns, not consistent with what is typical in the USA. For this reason I cannot recommend this text for American learners; e.g. blood glucoses are measured in mmol/L internationally, however USA, Germany use mg/dL where a normal BG in UK may be "4.4" but in the US one might consider a normal BG "80". This carries over again with concepts of ABG's and their utility in ventilator settings, respiratory emergencies and sepsis, etc. which become more confounding when using the PaCO2/PaO2 kPa instead of the mmHg used in American ICU's. When a BEGINNER is trying to learn the FUNDAMENTALS of crit care I recommend that a learner be introduced to the concepts using data measurement they are expected to utilize in practice rather than going through the mental gymnastics of doing conversions and THEN making a treatment decision. The theme of UK and USA differences continues into drug therapy. For example when covering RSI and sedation the authors discuss the utility of sodium thiopental, however this drug has not been available in the USA for many years. In addition there were some other areas where some recommended drugs did not correlate w/ typical USA patterns and others that received hardly any mention (e.g. little mention of vasopressin as an adjunct in pressor support, other paralytics in RSI such as succinyl choline, rocuronium, CCB's and BB's in atrial fibrillation). Least of all there are multiple areas where drug/device names that refer to the same agent but would confuse a beginner starting in the USA (e.g. albuterol = salbutamol, aceteminophen = paracetamol, norepinephrine = noradrenaline, Guedel = OPA etc.). Lastly, on the topic of UK vs worldwide differences the epidemiologic data mentioned refers to UK populations making it somewhat of an abstraction of the prevalence of disease in your area of practice if you're outside the UK. Which is fine, just be aware of that. The chapters, however, are well organized and majority begin with a clinical case which I find is a approach that cements concepts in learner. If anything I feel that some are much to short, even for a beginner. I'm specifically referring to the Cardiac Arrythmias chapter (p 233). There is much to cover on this topic and the 5 pages dedicated to it is simply not enough and there is no further recommended reading. And importantly, the EKG figures were switched around on p234 and p235, which again does a beginning learner a disservice. I did find the chapters dedicated specifically to ICU concepts useful such as "Fighting the Ventilator" and "Endotracheal tube and tracheostomy problems" which cover just enough ground for the trainee. Unfortunately, none of the chapters have in-text citations with little primary references - I did have some questions regarding some chapter authors recommendations and I'm unable to look up where the works cited to review the quality of evidence. There are multiple chapter authors and unfortunately this creates some redundancies. I could only find one area where there was a contradiction between authors which one author stated there is no contraindication for insertion of a NPA in setting of base-of-skull fracture (p.79) and on the next chapter another author stating that "nasopharyngeal airway is contraindicated if there is the possibility of a base of skull injury!" (p.87) - less than 10 pages apart. Again, there's no primary texts referenced and I can't confirm where the best, up to date evidence lies. In SHORT: this is a useful text to the BEGINNER who is looking to obtain a broad overview of critical care CONCEPTS. It is pretty easy to read through and simple to digest where I a motivated learner could get through the full 440 pages relatively quickly and gain a good grasp & appreciation of the concepts of critical care. The text accomplishes its goal of being a BEGINNER'S GUIDE to ICU and explicitly identifies its target audience in the title: . . . . A Handbook for Junior Doctors and Allied Professional. I do NOT recommend the text to American trainees for the reasons above (drugs, units, differences in practice patterns) and I don't recommend the text to practicioners who have more experience.
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Reviewed in the United States on January 19, 2021
J
Verified Purchase
Jose
Lexington, US
★★★★★ 3
Material
Format: Paperback
The material is not the greatest very basic and it is all UK based
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Reviewed in the United States on February 2, 2020

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